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The secret power of surfing

Aeon Daily <support@aeon.co>

August 11, 11:00 am

The secret power of surfing
Plus: An artist learns to ‘co-live’ with the voice in her head  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏  ­͏

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Monday 11 August 2025

aeon DAILY

Essay / Sports and games

The secret

At the heart of surfing, whether you’re a kook or a famous charger, is the pursuit of moments so pure they clean you out

M M Owen

Video / Consciousness and altered states

How an artist learned to ‘co-live’ with the distressing voice in her head

6 minutes

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